Review Courtesy of: Table Critic
Tryst Restaurant Review
689 Massachusetts Avenue
Arlington, MA 02476
By Bryan Roof
Atmosphere:
It used to be the case that the suburbs offered only a watered-down version of everything in the city, and their only benefit was free and available parking. In Boston, specialty shops outnumbered run-of-the-mill grocery stores, trendy bars sprouted up like weeds in the sidewalk cracks, and creative-minded chefs with an eye toward innovation and, believe it or not, good food were as common as franchises in the food court. Not necessarily so anymore. Increasingly, chefs are laying claim to the outskirts of the metropolis where, surprisingly, foodies and wine lovers actually live. One such restaurant is Tryst, located on prime real estate in Arlington Center.
Appetizer:
One of the many draws of Tryst is that with every dish you get more than you bargained for, as the various layers of each plate surprise and delight. An appetizer of crisp Hearts of Romaine ($8) is lightly dressed with a potent chili-lime vinaigrette that bolsters the sweetness of the lettuce while cutting the richness of the avocado. Cornbread croutons and irresistible spicy-sweet pepitas freckle the salad, adding crunch. A modern classic like Tuna Tartare ($13) offers a delicate mixture of fresh, pink tuna tossed with cucumber, jalapeno, and soy sauce. Crisp wonton crackers are served alongside for scooping. The Shrimp Tacos ($8) feature lightly breaded, crispy shrimp within a double layer of soft corn tortillas. A creamy mash of avocado and the sharp bite of pickled jalapenos and onions offer balancing acidity.
Heartier first course options include the Middle-Eastern spiced Lamb Meatballs ($8) and Sassafras-crusted Ribs ($10). The Lamb Meatballs are layered with cumin and coriander, and tempered by a cooling harissa-yogurt sauce. By comparison, the sassafras crust on the ribs is tame, allowing the flavor of the ribs to take center stage, while a root beer glaze weaves the elements together with a witty, sweet familiar flavor. An unlikely pairing of house-made kimchi accompanies the ribs, and its acidity and spice cut through the unctuous layers of pork fat.
Entrees:
For entrees, the Tagliatelle Carbonara ($18), comprised of fresh house-made pasta is surprisingly light. Toothsome tagliatelle is tossed in a rich pancetta and Parmesan sauce, and a delicately poached egg sits on top ready to purge its runny yolk over the noodles below. An ample dose of cracked black pepper and fresh Parmsan round out this addictive dish. 
The Almond-crusted Cod ($23) is a dish of understated creativity. The combination of nuts and fish works incredibly well, each playing off the subtle sweetness of the other. The accompanying chorizo tater-tots are creamy and light––more like croquettas you’d come across in a tapas joint than the humble school lunch side they’re named after. 
Breaded with panko and fried, the result is shatteringly crunchy and creamy at once, while still maintaining the identity of the potato.
A pool of romesco on the plate offers a background note of roasted peppers and a bracing shot of sherry vinegar. Finally, a pan-seared Spiced Long Island Duck Breast ($26) is served with crisp-tender black pepper spaetzle, trumpet mushrooms and a bitter-sweet pomegranate syrup that tempers the richness of the perfectly medium duck.
Dessert:
And finally, there’s dessert. There are 4 options ($8 each); we tried them all. And for the first time in my Boston dining experience I was impressed with every offering. Usually there’s one star on a dessert menu, and the rest of the offerings are there to fill out the page.
But here, the Almond Brown Butter Cake with brandy crème brulee and milk jam; Butterscotch Tart with thin chocolate crust and caramelized banana; Pineapple Tian with bright yuzu cream and crumbly shortbread; and Concorde with decadently rich layers of chocolate mousse, cocoa meringue, and nutty hazelnut crème anglaise, were all fantastic.
Even if I ate dinner at another restaurant, I would consider skipping dessert, and driving–with my still-incomplete dining experience digesting in my belly–to Tryst just for dessert. That’s how good it was. There, I said it.
Assessment:
Tryst satisfies the yearning for a restaurant with fine dining feel and pub attitude. The dining room is warm and inviting, the type of place you’d be comfortable sitting for a couple of hours, while the open bar at the front of the restaurant seems to cater to those just popping in for a quick bite. The food is smart, cleanly presented, and uncomplicated, and fits snuggly into the Arlington dynamic. A true American restaurant, Tryst offers something for everyone, even rock star parking.
Address: 689 Massachusetts Avenue, Arlington MA 02476
Phone: 781-641-2227
Website: http://www.trystrestaurant.com
Cuisine: American
Price: Antipasto: $8 to $26
Hours: Dinner: Mon-Thu: 5pm-10pm; Fri & Sat: 5pm-11pm; Sun: 430pm-9pm; Brunch: Sat & Sun: 11am–230pm
Recommendations: Shrimp Tacos, Tagliatelle, all desserts
Parking: street
Payment Options: cash, all major credit cards ?
