Petit Robert Central – Boston MA

By Rachel Weiner

Atmosphere:

Having frequented the Kenmore iteration of Petit Robert for several years, I approached my opportunity to try Petit Robert Central with excitement after looking at the menu and seeing old favorites and classics still resting there.

Upon entering this downtown location, however, I was instantly struck by how different this version of Jacky Robert’s restaurant was, with it’s large, lively bar buzzing with a well-dressed after work crowd and its equally large, chic and modern dining room instead of the small, dark brownstone I was familiar with.

Designed by Milton-resident and HGTV star Taniya Nayak, Petit Robert Central’s interior matches its prominent downtown address while still trying to hint at the rustic, homey vibe of the other Petit Robert restaurants with brickwork, lush pillows in deep windowsills and antiqued mirrors. It’s a large space, and Nayak did well to fill it with modern, urban details that  are accentuated by the picture windows looking out over Downtown Crossing.

General manager Traci Roche said the biggest difference (and advantage) of this new Petit Robert location, that just opened this past September, was its ability to accommodate the needs of large group functions and parties. The larger bar also makes it much more lively, Roche explained.

And I did rather enjoy the liveliness of the bar at an early hour on a Wednesday during the winter months, but, to be honest, I missed the coziness of the old brick brownstone in Kenmore, with its mix of quirky academic diners and regular clientele of native French-speakers, spending the afternoon in the window seat, dining on good food and reading the newspaper. I always feel instantly swept up in the romantic atmosphere of Petit Robert Kenmore, and it didn’t happen for me at Petit Robert Central, which felt just like all of the other downtown restaurants – beautiful and well-appointed, but uninspired.

For As is typical of Jacky Robert’s restaurants, Petit Robert Central boasts a healthy cocktail and wine list and also has a full bar if nothing on the menu strikes a chord. Specialty cocktails cost $10 and many incorporate house-infused liquors, like the drink my partner tried, the Goji Vesper, which was take on the classic “Casino Royale” made with goji berry vodka.

Wines by the glass ($7 to $18), included a small selection of bubbly, which I is how I chose to begin my meal (locally-sourced Westport Rivers RJB Cuvee Brut, $10).  Beer and bottles of wine are also available and are fairly reasonably priced. Beer ranges from $4 to $6 (the selection isn’t enormous) and bottles of wine start in the low thirties and top out at a mere $95, showcasing both French and American bottles.

With our entrees, we each opted for a glass of Pinot Noir from California ($10) which was mild and fruity and paired well both with my husband’s steak and my seafood.

After breaking our bread, we began our meal each with an oyster (Cape Cod, $3/each) and then my husband had the foie gras ($19) while I had the garden salad served with a shallot vinaigrette and panko-crusted goat cheese ($11), which are our favorite selections from the Kenmore location.

Both were prepared just as perfectly as we remembered them.  The generous piece of foie gras, charred just enough on the outside to create a palate-pleasing contrast to the unctuous interior, is topped with a sweet and sour apple-cinnamon chutney.

The salad, also a generous portion, is lightly dressed and served with discs of red plum tomatoes and a ball of goat cheese that has been rolled in panko bread crumbs and lightly fried. The warm, creamy goat cheese dances on the tongue alongside the tangy shallot vinaigrette and crisp baby greens, making this dish a hit in any season. In fact, anytime I crave salad, it is always this salad I crave (my husband feels similarly about the foie gras), and I was very happy that Petit Robert Central has kept both dishes the same.

My husband and I were excited to try some of the entrees on the menu at Petit Robert Central. Although nearly identical to Petit Robert Kenmore’s menu, I typically have dined at the Kenmore location for lunch, or, having gorged myself on several baguettes, opted to dine solely on salad and dessert.

Tonight, however, I chose the scallops Provençale ($20) and my husband, the beef-tenderloin au poivre ($20).  Both entrees were served with creamy mashed potatoes and a mixture of sautéed carrots and onions.

The scallops, topped with a juicy, sweet “salsa” of tomatoes and herbs were pan-seared perfectly, and some of the best I’ve had recently. They were crispy on the outside and still a touch raw in the center, but warm the whole way through and splendidly chewy.

The tenderloin au poivre, was, as expected, liberally crusted in black pepper and then seared, charring the outside, but leaving the interior a moist red.  I was impressed with the simplicity of both dishes and the excellence of preparation – both were cooked quite well and were tasty, without getting too creative. This seems to be a hallmark of the Petit Robert “chain” – simple and well-prepared. Everything about the meal is decadent and delicious, but nothing is far-fetched or incredibly innovative, which is sometimes difficult to come by in our increasingly food-oriented culture.

I knew what dessert I wanted before I even sat down at my table – the soufflé ($10) – which is good, since you have to order it when you order you meal, as timing is essential for serving and enjoying a good soufflé.   Petit Robert Central has seasonal flavors for their soufflé and for winter they are serving a chocolate soufflé, sprinkled lightly with powdered sugar, and served with a raspberry sauce that I didn’t even try, the soufflé was so tasty on its own. The rich, decadent chocolate and the light, airy texture of the soufflé is an ideal winter dessert.

For those unwilling to make their dessert decision when they order their meal, Petit Robert Central has other dessert options like crème brulee ($7), bread pudding ($7), cheeses ($3/cut), house sorbets ($6), and a chocolate cake served with an Eiffel Tower likeness in chocolate ($10), among other things.  (Of course, you can still order the soufflé at the end of your meal, but be prepared to wait 20 minutes or so for it to be served to you. It is certainly worth the wait!)