Mela Restaurant
Posted by caroloc
Review Courtesy of: Table Critic
578 Tremont Street
Boston, MA 02118
By Rebeccah Marsters
Atmosphere:
I arrived at Mela in Boston’s South End determined that only organic foods would pass my lips that evening. I was sampling their new menu, which is tailored to let diners do just that, and perhaps it was just my mindset, but ‘organic’ seemed like an apt description for the venue as well.
With a tucked away side street feel, despite its convenient Tremont Street location, the restaurant was a haven of light and warmth on a frigid night. Gauzy salmon-colored draperies swathed the front door and obscured the windows, blush banquettes and low-slung wicker chairs surrounded the tables, and hanging, snow-white pendants that looked like they were made of ribbon candy lit the front bar area as well as the larger dining room. On the walls, the sheen of undulating strips of copper shared space with classical Indian deities in white relief sculpture, creating a space that was exciting to the eye while maintaining a calming ‘Zen’ quality, and oozed clean modernity while hinting at the hallowed and historical.
After plunking myself down on a molded Lucite perch at the bar, I had opposing inclinations towards meditation and mealtime, but the aromas that emanated from the kitchen soon set me straight- not to mention how hard it would’ve been to assume the lotus position on that stool. We were soon installed at a table directly outside the kitchen door, eagerly waiting to learn the source of those alluring smells. Despite being a component of One World Cuisine, which encompasses other Indian and Indo-Chinese eateries such as Diva, Bukhara, Mantra, and Kashmir, Mela is in no danger of being eclipsed by the other, more well known members of the One World family, nor by its competitors. Not only does it have a monopoly on the South End, with a decent eat-in business as well as booming delivery and takeout services, but it’s taking on the challenge of offering an all-organic menu, which is sure to bring in curious patrons from all over the city.
Starters:
We were presented with an amended version of the organic menu that appears online, as the chef apologetically explained the challenges of sourcing local produce in January. On top of being committed to all organic products on this specialized menu, the chef does his best to patronize small, local farms whenever possible. Seeing as we had scaled a snow bank in the parking lot only moments earlier, I wasn’t expecting the Butter Brook farms heirloom tomatoes that would have graced the Tikka Masala had it been mid-August, but the fact that Mela is not only giving business to places like Butter Brook, and Brookline favorite Allandale farms, but also giving them publicity right on the menu, bodes well for the restaurant’s commitment to these principles.
The first dish that landed on our table was the Mushroom ‘Money bag’ Samosas ($12) with a bowl of chickpea-yogurt soup by its side. The normal menu has a plethora of tempting appetizers, including various samosa ($4 to $5), pakora ($6 to $8), chat ($7 to $8), and soups including the classic Mulligatawny ($4). Our organic starters arrived artfully plated, and the aptly-named samosa really did resemble a sack of cash, with the crisp-fried dough encompassing the filling and then gathering at the top. The deep golden brown crust encased a bulging abundance of various mushrooms along with tender morsels of potato- traditional in these Indian pastries. The subtle flavors of warm spices permeated the vegetables, and the dough had just the right balance between crunch and chew. The soup was steaming and full of firm chickpeas, onion, and cilantro in a spicy broth. The yogurt gave a brilliant tanginess to the whole thing, and while in the American culture we shy away from things that look curdled, one bite will outweigh the aesthetic hesitation of even the most wary eater. The samosa sat on a bed of baby lettuces, and surrounding the whole plate was a green sauce with the bright, simple flavors of fresh cilantro and jalapeno.
Entrees:
Mela’s everyday menu teems with traditional Indian dishes; meat and fish cooked in the tandoor oven ($13 to $24), various biryani ($13 to $17), a daunting list of different curries, with seafood, chicken, vegetables, lamb, and even goat ($12 to $18), and another specialty called hot-stone cooking, in which slices of marinated meat or seafood are brought to your table along with a hot, oiled stone on which you (carefully) cook your own meal. With all these choices, I was almost relieved to be faced with the more limited- but equally intriguing- organic menu. In the summer months, I would undoubtedly have gone for the aforementioned Chicken Tikka Masala ($24), or perhaps the Veggie Korma ($20), that boasts Allandale farms’ vegetables braised in a spicy sauce, but I decided to save those until the farms were up and running again. Instead, the first entrée we sampled was the Organic Tandoori Chicken ($20).
A slightly charred half chicken was wonderfully simple, served with little else but its very own subtly-spiced skin and juicy, tender meat. Two sauces were brought alongside, and while the coconut dip was a sweet, cooling counterpart to the bird, the creamy tomato condiment was far too reminiscent of canned tomato soup for my liking.
Next to arrive was a bowl of ‘Kerala’ Salmon Curry ($24), Kerala being a state in the south west of India with a distinct culinary style. Along with the curry was what I must admit is perhaps my favorite part of Indian meals, and most meals for that matter- the bread. Naan is one of the staple breads in India, and is never better than when it’s made in the traditional way: in a blistering-hot tandoori oven. Mela’s naan was dense and chewy, thick enough to be substantial without entering doughy territory, and covered with a flaky, crackling surface riddled with charred bubbles from the extreme cooking temperatures. It is not only a sublimely simple food, being nothing but unleavened bread, but an ideal utensil and sauce soaker for all the delicious things that are usually eaten alongside it- which brings me back to the curry. A rich sauce of coconut, tomato, and curry leaf surrounded chickpeas and generous chunks of Alaskan salmon. Spooned onto the naan, it was so satisfying that I could almost overlook the dry, overcooked salmon, but given the obvious freshness and quality of the fish, it was a shame not to see it at its best.
Finally, the Paalak Tofu Stir Fry ($20) is a dish that would almost feel too virtuous- if it weren’t so tasty. It was simply prepared with baby spinach and cumin, letting the flavors of the ingredients really stand out: the clean, simple taste of tofu, the vegetal, slightly bitter spinach, and the toasty cumin. In the bottom of the bowl was a pool of warm juices ripe for the sopping, tinged green by the spinach and fragrant with spice- just the opportunity I was waiting for to grab another piece of naan.
Drinks & Dessert:
With a surprisingly vast array of wines available by the bottle, a handful of beers including two from India, and a cleverly-named collection of Indian-themed cocktails, the beverage scene at Mela is better than one might expect. Among the non-alcoholic selections, Mela’s lassi (a yogurt-based drink with spices or fruit), in either sweet, salty or mango ($3 to $4) and their pistachio shake ($4) are the standouts. Always in need of a refreshing sipper with spicy food, we indulged in a Taj Mahal, a lager-style beer made by a brewery in Bangalore. While admittedly neither organic nor local, it was simple, crisp, and cold- just what the meal at hand called for. In terms of sweets, Mela serves a few dessert menu mainstays, such as ice cream, sorbet, chocolate cake, and crème brulee, but it’s the more obscure selections that seem worth a try: a rice and milk concoction called Kheer, deep-fried milk balls in syrup known as Gulab Jamun, and fresh cheese patties with milk syrup and almonds called Ras Malai ($4 to $6). Alas, as none of these confections were organic, we would have to wait until our next visit to satisfy our curiosity- no one said the virtuous path was without sacrifice.
The good news is, an organic rice pudding will soon show up on the menu, but for now, the idea of it would have to suffice.
As consolation, the manager offered us flutes of organic sparkling wine, which made the sacrifice seem a bit less heroic, but we accepted nonetheless.
Assessment:
With an address in a lively neighborhood, no direct competition nearby, and a beautiful space that draws in diners for the ambiance as much as the cuisine, Mela had no need for improvement. The quality of the food speaks to the talent at work in the kitchen, and this new organic project speaks to the intention behind that work. At a time when the economy is still not in full swing, and any financial endeavor comes with profound risk, an establishment has to have serious faith in its customers and its suppliers for an undertaking like this. Yes, the dishes are slightly pricier than their non-organic counterparts, and no, you wouldn’t know by tasting them what makes them special, but this is where Mela is asking for a little faith from its diners in return. I look forward to returning when the local produce is in full bloom and features in Mela’s entrees, and when the new organic wines and desserts appear on the menu. If not for this, then visit Mela for the satisfying Indian cuisine they have been offering since opening in 2007, the Zen-like atmosphere, or perhaps just to take a spin on one of those Lucite barstools while sipping an inventive cocktail- no one mentioned organic liquor, but with the way things are going, I wouldn’t be surprised if that were next.
Address: 578 Tremont Street, Boston, MA 02118
Phone: 617-859-4805
Website: http://www.melaboston.com/
Cuisine: Indian
Price: Starters and soups: $4 to $12; Breads: $3 to $5; Entrees: $12 to $27; Sides: $2 to $5; Desserts: $4 to $6
Hours: 1130am-11pm daily
Features: Organic menu, full bar, hot stone cooking, takeout and delivery, brunch and lunch buffets everyday
Recommendations: Organic menu; mushroom samosa ($12), Tandoori chicken ($20), Paalak Tofu ($20), naan
Parking: ?Street
Payment Options: Cash, All major credit cards
